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In Cab Winch Control
Here is a quick write up for in cab winch controls. There will be
a few steps that you will need to use your imagination on. I will not
show any electrical connections I made so you can't blame me if you
burn your jeep to the ground. Take the information below and use
it as a starter guide to make your own. These plans were for a 2000
Jeep TJ Wrangler. You may need to change things to make it fit your
need.
First is a parts list.
Woods 15' extension cord that I picked up at China-Mart for
around $7.00.
GB Gardner Bender 3 way momentary switch Part # GSW-123 from
Farm&Fleet for about $5.00
2" pop up sprinkler head (shortest one I could find in the rack) From
Menards plumbing section $1.39
Gray plastic plug from Menards fastener section to fit snug in the
sprinkler head when disassembled $.59
misc. wire terminals.
First cut a section off the male end of the cord. I used about 18" This
will be used to make the remote.
Next remove the dash bezel and prepare to start hacking. Trim out the
green selected area to make room for the cord to feed through.
Next is the ash tray. This is what it will look like after you finish hacking. Pay attention to what you cut so it will still mount just like
it always did. It just won't hold ashes anymore.
Put the dash back together and start feeding the wire through. There is
a plug in the firewall just to the drivers side of the valve cover.
This is the one I used to enter the engine compartment.
Here is where it went through.
And here is what the dash looks like with the cord in the open. When
not in use there is enough room in there to stuff it away and close the
ashtray for a stealth look.
Now find a route that works best for your needs to get to the winch
control box and drill a hole just big enough to get the cord in to the
solenoids.
DO NOT HOOK UP WIRES AT THIS POINT!!!!
Now on to the remote I forgot to take pics as I was building it so here
is where you will need to use your imagination. First you will need to
gut the sprinkler head. Just unscrew the top and everything will come
out. There are 3 little stiffener vanes inside of the housing that will
need to be removed down a bit to make room for the cap and switch. I
used an air saw but anything that will cut down in there will work.
Next you will need to drill a hole in the center of the gray cap for
the switch. This is probably the most important step of the whole
thing. If it isn't in the center you will fail and you will see when
you try to assemble it. The switch fits very tight into the
housing. Next run the wire through and hook it up to the switch.
I will tell you I used the green for a common wire to keep it simple.
Now it is time to assemble everything. Get the switch started into the
housing and use the cap up side down as a tool to press the assemble
into the housing with your hands. See how tight that is? LOL Now you
have slightly warped the housing into an egg shape so it will be a
little tough to get the cap on, but it will go.
Now pay close attention to the direction the switch moves and dill a
pilot hole in the housing for the conduit clamp. I used a #14 hex
head sheet metal screw with the sharp point ground off so it cant cut
the wires inside.
Now just clamp it to the shifter and plug it in. I am going to put a
wing nut on mine to make it easier to remover.
At this point you can wire it into the solenoid box as well. This way
you can test and switch the wires wile you have it apart if it runs
backwards from your switch. Just make sure to pull a little cable before
touching the switch.
That just about does it. Use it as is and don't blame me if your
insurance company tells you they wont cover the fire loss.
